Simple bets on retinyl propionate for sensitive skin

The British skincare brand has expanded its portfolio with Super Glow+ Bi-Phase Serum, a bi-phase formulation built around 0.3% retinyl propionate, a pro-retinoid designed to convert gradually into retinoic acid in the skin, with the aim of improving skin tolerability compared with retinol. The formula also combines 3% niacinamide, 0.4% hexylresorcinol and 3.5% plant-derived triglycerides, intended to mimic the skin barrier lipids, reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and enhance the delivery of lipophilic actives.

According to data released by the company, four-week clinical testing and ex vivo studies demonstrated increased collagen production together with reduced expression of interleukin-6 (IL-6), a cytokine involved in the inflammatory response, compared with retinol. Through this approach, Simple is embracing the emerging "collagen banking" concept, which aims to preserve the skin's collagen reserves while balancing anti-ageing efficacy with improved tolerability for sensitive skin.