Egyptian jasmine unveils its secrets

A recent study (published in the Journal of Essential Oil Research (JEOR)), conducted by an international team of researchers, including Emanuela Trovato and Luigi Mondello from the University of Messina (Italy) and Daniel Strub from the University of Science and Technology in Wroclaw (Poland), sheds light on the properties of Jasminum grandiflorumessential oil, industrially produced in Egypt through steam distillation. Conducted in collaboration with A. Fakhry & Co., this research marks the first in-depth comparison between the essential oil and the absolute, a flagship ingredient in perfumery traditionally obtained through solvent extraction, whereas the essential oil was considered impossible to obtain until 2019.

Chromatographic analysis of the essential oil’s chemical composition by GC-MS and GC-FID identified over 130 volatile compounds representing over 98% of its total composition. The oil is characterised by its higher levels of linalool, (Z)-jasmone and (E,E)-α-farnesene. Certain compounds, such as α-terpineol and geraniol, or dehydrolinalool and its oxides, were only detected in the essential oil, highlighting its uniqueness. In contrast, the absolute is richer in phytol, phytol acetate and (Z)-methyl jasmonate.

A sensory evaluation conducted by Clio Vidal, perfumer at Wala GmbH (Germany), clearly distinguished the olfactory profiles. The essential oil offers a dynamic, youthful, green, and floral scent with spring-like floral notes (reminiscent of lily of the valley, white lilac, and linden blossom), pear, aldehydic notes, a hint of tomato leaf, and an unexpected lengthiness and hold on the blotter for an essential oil. In contrast, the absolute presents a fruitier fragrance, evocative of strawberry/apricot jam, with a richer and more sensual character.

Both extracts were tested against 18 human pathogens and cosmetic contaminants. Jasmine essential oil exhibited superior antimicrobial activity, inhibiting eight out of seventeen microbial strains, compared to two for the absolute. This difference in biological activity makes the essential oil more appealing for use in cosmetics and aromatherapy as a natural alternative to synthetic agents. It also offers a variety of scents that were previously unavailable in a 100% pure and natural Jasminum grandiflorum product, yet so typical of the natural scent of a jasmine field.

Historically used only for the production of absolute, Jasminum grandiflorum is now processed using a more sustainable approach, eliminating petroleum-based solvents (i.e., hexane) for its extraction. Since 2022, the production site has reduced fossil fuel-based electricity consumption by 71% through photovoltaic energy adoption and lowered water usage for cooling/condensation processes by two orders of magnitude. The industrial trial (available in the company's catalogue) carried out by A. Fakhry & Co., using fresh flowers from the Shoubra Beloula El-Sakhaweya region (Nile Delta), achieved an average yield of 0.025% (0.250 kg/tonne of flowers), with production exceeding 200 kg/year since 2020, with a potential for significantly higher output if required.

This pioneering study demonstrates that steam distillation produces a jasmine essential oil that is technically well-characterised, olfactorily unique, and biologically active. It thus offers a sustainable and high-performing alternative to the absolute.

Note : A. Fakhry & Co., which is celebrating its 70^th anniversary this year, controls, year in year out, 75-85% of the jasmine supply chain in Egypt. Aware of the social issues at stake, the company has been committed to education and community development for over two decades through The Fakhry Aid Foundation’s tutoring and extracurricular programmes, as well as initiatives supporting women’s empowerment in the region. It now plays a key role in the Jasmine Coalition, led by the Fair Labor Association, working to eliminate child labour in agriculture, improve wages for jasmine pickers in Egypt’s jasmine cultivation sub-sector (220 hectares), and reduce synthetic pesticide inputs across multiple supply chains, including jasmine, with support from public actors (Egyptian government, civil society representatives, unions, etc.) and private stakeholders.