OSMOLYA®: A bio-inspired active targeting osmoregulation for advanced hydration

As environmental stressors intensify and consumer expectations evolve, hydration is no longer limited to surface lipid replenishment. The focus is shifting toward maintaining optimal hydration inside cells and supporting their ability to adapt to daily stress. In this context, Laboratoires Expanscience introduces OSMOLYA® (INCI: Propanediol & Water & Iresine Weberbaueri Flower Extract), a naturally derived active ingredient designed to support cellular hydration. Moving beyond traditional moisturization, it optimizes how skin cells manage and retain water under environmental stress.

A plant adapted to extreme environments

OSMOLYA® is extracted from Iresine weberbaueri, an endemic Peruvian plant known for its ability to survive in extreme conditions. This resilience is linked to its capacity to finely regulate internal water balance by naturally producing betaine, making it a relevant model for addressing modern hydration challenges through a bio-inspired approach.

OSMOLYA® is a water-soluble extract rich in betaine (≥13%) and polyphenols (≥6%), two molecule families involved in protecting cells against osmotic, oxidative and inflammatory stress.

Targeting cellular osmoregulation

OSMOLYA® supports osmoregulation, the mechanism by which cells maintain internal water balance. In-vitro studies show that OSMOLYA® activates the cellular response to osmotic stress and increases the expression of key osmolyte transporters (TAUT, SMIT and BGT1), supporting the skin’s ability to maintain optimal hydration at the cellular level.

Beyond osmoregulation, OSMOLYA® contributes to barrier integrity by stimulating key epidermal markers such as HAS3, TGAS1 and involucrin, while increasing occludin expression in an ex-vivo model. This reinforces the cohesion and functionality of the skin barrier, which plays a role in maintaining hydration.

Clinically proven skin benefits

Clinical studies on female volunteers with dry skin evaluated short‑ and long‑term moisturizing and skin barrier strengthening.

Corneometry measurements on the forearm showed increased hydration as early as 1 hour after application. This effect was confirmed by a TEWL study performed on the face with 2% of OSMOLYA®. A significant improvement in skin hydration was observed from day 3 (−54% vs placebo) and was maintained after 28 days of twice‑daily use (−38% vs placebo).

Clinical evaluations also demonstrated reduced dryness, desquamation, and roughness, together with a significant increase in stratum corneum thickness measured by Raman spectroscopy, confirming its role in reinforcing the skin barrier.

Volunteers confirmed these results, reporting an increased perception of skin hydration from day 3, which was maintained after 28 days of use.

Extending hydration to hair care

A study conducted on different hair types (2B & 4A) showed that OSMOLYA® enhances internal hair hydration by increasing the proportion of strongly bound water within the fiber compared to the placebo.

At 2%, OSMOLYA® significantly reduces frizz and enhances curl definition on 3A hair type vs T0, resulting in visibly improved hair quality. It also reinforces thermally damaged fibers more effectively than placebo, supporting greater strength and resilience.

Meeting naturality standards

COSMOS and NATRUE compliant, OSMOLYA® meets the strictest international criteria for naturality, quality and transparency. These certifications ensure that the ingredient is derived from natural raw materials and processed using environmentally respectful methods.