in-cosmetics Fragrance Zone: Perfumery enters the era of emotional performance

At in-cosmetics Global 2026, fragrance reaches a new milestone. Combining neuroscience, upcycled ingredients and new olfactory creations, perfume is becoming a driver of innovation that is at once functional, experiential and responsible. This transformation is driven as much by technological advances as by the use of ever-more sophisticated raw materials.

By

Véronique Louis

Emotions are now measurable and actionable

The emotional appeal is no longer enough: it must now be proven. Advances in neuroscience and data are driving the perfume industry to quantify the impact of scents on mood and behaviour. As a result, fragrance houses are investing in proprietary technologies that aim to objectify this emotional response.

Eurofragance presents Get in the Mood!, a collection built around six key emotions.

Its EuroMotion^® technology uses a proprietary ingredient that triggers specific sensory responses, designed to modulate and enhance the emotional impact of compositions.

IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances) is taking a holistic approach with its Science of Wellness programme. Through technologies such as Metamood^™, which combines neuroscience, artificial intelligence and consumer data, and Metasleep^™, which focuses on relaxation, the group is developing an integrated vision of fragrances as a measurable and quantifiable tool for well-being.

The growing popularity of "scientific perfumery" is also evident at TechnicoFlor, which is promoting its Genius concept, focused on neurosensory stimulation and optimising user experience.

With EmoScent, Sozio structures emotion as a genuine formulation tool. Each fragrance is linked to a clearly defined emotion and a complete sensory universe (colour, energy, and feeling), making it easier for brands to adopt. The strength of the concept lies in its scientific validation in partnership with Eurofins, which lends credibility to the compositions' emotional impact by making it measurable. At the stand, visitors could explore these correspondences in real time using an interactive table, linking olfactory perception with visual experience.

Towards an active and hybrid perfumery

Another major shift is the growing convergence between fragrance and skincare. Fragrance no longer simply characterises a product; it now contributes to its performance.

Expressions Parfumées illustrates this trend with AgeAura^™, an "active perfumery" technology that incorporates a seaweed extract into the fragrance composition, as part of a well-ageing approach. The aim is to combine skincare benefits and a distinctive scent in the same formula.

IFF takes this concept a step further by focusing on all the sensory "touchpoints" of a cosmetic product – fragrance, texture and performance – as part of a holistic approach to cosmetic products.

Robertet is expanding its Actiscent^™ range with Gentiana Lutea, a woody antioxidant extract with scientifically validated anti-ageing, antioxidant and anti-stress properties.

The boundary between fragrance and cosmetics is blurring. Fragrances now have a functional purpose, with claimed benefits for the skin, hair and overall well-being.

Naturalness under constraints: Traceability and impact

While naturalness remains an essential pillar, it is also becoming increasingly complex. Beyond natural origin, it is now the proof – traceability, impact, ethics – that makes the difference. Eurofragance offers Olivante^®, derived from upcycled olive pulp. LMR Naturals by IFF unveils a range of exceptional ingredients combining technological innovation and responsible sourcing: upcycled cocoa from Madagascar with dark, powdery facets; Arabica coffee extracted usingsupercritical CO₂; PulpXtract passion fruit obtained from distillation waters; and tonka beans produced using a low-environmental-impact process.

Ayanda African Oils, a South African cooperative, promotes an integrated model covering the entire production chain, guaranteeing quality, traceability and organic certification.

Dahab Gums develops traditional frankincense production, combined with full digital traceability and strong environmental and social commitments.

Aroma y Paz (Peru) capitalises on Palo Santo, a premium botanical ingredient with soothing properties, sourced legally and sustainably.

Finally, Origin Oils offers an agritech approach to sourcing, combining traceability, data and a portfolio of distinctive ingredients (tea, Sichuan pepper, nagarmotha).

The origin of raw materials is becoming a key factor of value, credibility and differentiation.

New olfactory creations

On a creative level, fragrance houses are exploring new territory. The perfume industry is moving away from the obvious, to explore more abstract, textured and narrative landscapes.

Iberchem surprises with Between the Lines, a new olfactory territory centred on the scent of ink, blending mineral, woody and metallic notes, marking a break from the predominant gourmand profiles.

Luzi revisits the gourmand genre with Play of Sweets, infusing it with salty, bitter or umami facets to enrich the sensory palette.

Cosmo International Fragrances offers an immersive experience with "Cirque des Merveilles", where each fragrance evokes a specific emotional state. The fragrance transforms into a narrative, or even a scenography.

Perfume as an immersive experience

At last, perfume is stepping out of the bottle to fill the space. Scenography, interaction, and immersion: fragrance is now as much an experience to be lived as it is to be smelled.

Ravetllat Fragrances, with From Space to Place, creates compositions designed as "sensory spaces", inspired by architecture, volume and light.

At the trade show, the stands themselves become experiential installations: emotional journeys, immersive installations, multisensory interactions.

This evolution confirms a profound shift: perfume is now a holistic, measurable, immersive and meaningful experience, not just a signature. The fragrance is as much about the experience as it is about the scent.