Beauty: Ingredients become the new language of consumers

Between cutting-edge science and a return to natural origins, cosmetic actives are redefining trends and brand strategies. An evolution analysed by Spate, a beauty trend data specialist.

A quiet revolution in beauty routines

Long relegated to the background behind marketing and packaging, ingredients have now become central to purchasing decisions in cosmetics. According to Spate’s 2026 Ingredient Trends Report, they have become “the primary language” consumers use to discover, evaluate, and recommend products.

This shift is driven by increasingly knowledgeable consumers who are now capable of decoding formulations and comparing active ingredients. As a result, brands are no longer simply selling products, but compositions.

Ultra-scientific actives on the rise

Among the most striking trends is the spectacular rise of ingredients derived from scientific research. Molecules such as NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) have recorded growth of more than +2000% year-on-year, while PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) (see Expression Cosmétique No.97, p.110 and No.98, p.144) and peptides (see Expression Cosmétique No.97, p.140) are rapidly gaining popularity, again according to Spate.

These actives, once confined to dermatology clinics or medical treatments, are now making their way into everyday routines. Their promise: visible, fast and measurable results.

The Volufiline^™ phenomenon: the pursuit of volume

A symbol of this new generation of targeted actives, Volufiline^™ perfectly illustrates changing consumer expectations. This ingredient from Croda has seen spectacular growth of +1,200% year-on-year within the skincare sector.

Praised for its plumping properties, it addresses highly specific concerns: wrinkles, hollow areas, and loss of lip volume. The phenomenon has been amplified by K-beauty brands (see Expression Cosmétique No.98, p.40) such as Sungboon Editor and Skin1004, alongside The Ordinary, all of which are contributing to its democratisation.

Beta-glucan: the quiet ally of the skin barrier

Less publicised but experiencing strong growth, beta-glucan has established itself as a key skincare ingredient, with growth reaching +739.9%.

Celebrated for its hydrating and repairing properties, it integrates easily into various formats – serums, creams and SPF products – and appeals to consumers seeking to protect their skin, particularly when using powerful active ingredients.

Hair care: the scalp becomes a new area of innovation

This trend towards ʺingredientisationʺ is now extending into hair care. Spate’s report highlights strong growth in actives targeting hair growth and scalp health.

Castor oil, for example, has recorded growth of +49.3%, driven by highly practical concerns such as hair loss and hair density. Consumers are alternating between using it in its raw form and in more sophisticated products such as masks or conditioners.

Meanwhile, peptides – already well established in skincare – are migrating into hair care, promising density and stimulation of hair growth. This crossover confirms a broader trend: active ingredients are no longer confined to a single category but are moving freely between uses.

Body care: the skinification of the body accelerates

Another notable shift is the extension of facial skincare ingredients into body care (see Expression Cosmétique No.97, p.22).

Salicylic acid, long associated with facial skincare, is experiencing significant growth in body care (+73.2%). Consumers are adopting it to treat targeted concerns such as body acne (ʺbacneʺ) or keratosis pilaris, reflecting an increasingly expert and segmented approach to body care.

At the same time, ingredients such as hypochlorous acid are booming (+2.1K%), particularly for uses linked to post-workout hygiene or sensitive skin. These new habits reflect the growing medicalisation of body care.

The return of natural ingredients

Alongside this scientific boom, traditional ingredients are also experiencing renewed interest. Turmeric, red ginseng, fermented rice water and plant oils are increasingly prominent in online searches and across social media.

A similar trend can be seen in hair care with vegetable oils such as avocado and jojoba oil. This phenomenon reflects a dual aspiration: naturalness and authenticity.

Rather than opposing science and nature, consumers are now combining both approaches, integrating technical actives alongside solutions rooted in ancestral traditions within hybrid routines.

Social media vs search engines: two visions of desire

Spate’s report highlights a key point: not all channels tell the same story.

Social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram reflect aspirations and viral trends, whereas search engines reveal deeper and more practical intentions. In other words, where TikTok inspires, Google confirms.

This duality allows brands both to anticipate trends – since increased search activity often precedes higher sales – making search a genuine predictive indicator, and to better understand the consumer journey.

More demanding… and more sceptical consumers

Another major insight is the rise of consumer scepticism. Discussions on Reddit analysed in Spate’s report show that users are actively questioning the effectiveness and safety of ingredients.

The success of Volufiline™ and peptides is therefore accompanied by intense debates. This vigilance requires brands to demonstrate greater transparency, or risk damaging their credibility.

Towards a new era of cosmetics

At the crossroads of science, naturalness and digital culture, the beauty market is entering a new phase. Better-informed consumers are now setting the rules.

For brands, the challenge is clear: not merely to follow trends, but to understand them in depth while supporting an increasingly expert audience.

Because in this new equation, the ingredient is no longer a technical detail. It has become the very story of the product.