The prerogative of a smile: The era of dental skinification

Once confined to a purely hygienic gesture, the oral care ritual has now established itself as a central pillar of beauty and holistic wellbeing. A true status symbol and a new territory for personal expression, the smile – now regarded as an aesthetic, social and identity asset – has become an integral part of self-care routines. Between skinification, premiumisation and enhanced sensoriality, smile-care is transcending traditional oral hygiene to emerge as a fully-fledged cosmetic category in its own right. Much like skincare before it, oral care is adopting the codes of premium beauty: personalisation, targeted efficacy, desirability and emotional experience.

By

Mathilde Brosseau

Currently undergoing profound transformation within an especially dynamic competitive landscape, the oral care segment is following a sustained growth trajectory: from $62.9 bn (approximately €53.8 bn) in 2026, the global market is expected to reach $113.5 bn (approximately €97 bn) by 2035, driven by a CAGR of 6.8% (Global Market Insights Inc.). While Asia-Pacific – led by China – is fuelling growth, France and Canada are emerging as strategic growth hubs. Despite the rise of e-commerce, physical retail channels continue to dominate due to the trust placed in local professional advice – whether in pharmacies or dental practices.

Increasingly aware of broader health issues, consumers are moving beyond simple cleaning in favour of more advanced solutions: active mouthwashes, technical dental flosses and high-performance whitening formulas. This sophistication of the offering reflects a deeper shift in consumer behaviour: the mouth is no longer perceived solely as a medical territory, but as a direct extension of contemporary beauty and wellness standards. Fuelled by the overexposure of faces on social media and video platforms, this pursuit of the perfect smile is propelling premiumisation to the forefront of growth drivers. In this context, brands are no longer simply selling hygiene products, but promises of self-confidence, status and image control.

Premiumisation as the main differentiating lever

Driven by TikTok and new obsessions surrounding the ʺperfect smileʺ, oral care is embracing the viral codes of beauty-tech. The smile is becoming an aesthetic attribute to optimise in the same way as skin or hair. Australian brand HiSmile popularised at-home LED whitening kits among Gen Z consumers, while Korean label Vussen segments its toothpastes according to varying whitening levels, much like a personalised skincare routine.

Facing long-established hygiene giants, indie brands are disrupting the category by adopting niche positioning that combines sensoriality, design and sophistication. Inspired by the work of Frank O’Hara, Swedish brand Selahatin transforms toothbrushing into a meditative interlude with its Meditations In An Emergency set, composed of three whitening toothpastes featuring signature flavours: Eukalypse, Steam Will Rise and Blue Forever. Italian brand Marvis elevates toothpaste into a genuine mouth fragrance: its limited-edition Kissing Rose captures the essence of a kiss through notes of Bulgarian rose enhanced with a hint of mint.

The category’s growing desirability also extends to accessory design. Swiss brand Curaprox is reinventing the historically clinical image of dental prophylaxis through colourful accessories, artistic collaborations and playful aesthetics. Taking a more minimalist approach, Swedish company Aurezzi elevates the electric toothbrush into a lifestyle object with models inspired by the worlds of technology and luxury hospitality. Oral care is thus emancipating itself from traditional pharmaceutical codes to fully embrace those of contemporary design and luxury.

Some brands are pushing the aesthetic and cultural dimension even further. New York-based label Arame draws inspiration from Mesopotamian rituals to create cosmetics resembling decorative objects. Its range revolves around two signature products: The Polish, an exfoliating paste enriched with fruit enzymes (papain and bromelain), and The Paste, a remineralising toothpaste combining nano-hydroxyapatite, hyaluronic acid and ancestral miswak extract.

Adopting a more heritage-driven approach, Officine Universelle Buly is re-enchanting the oral care ritual with apothecary-inspired accessories and treatments rooted in historical references, transforming the act of hygiene into a true aesthetic experience.

Behind this pursuit of excellence, the sector is no longer relying solely on sensorial pleasure and product aesthetics. Brands are now leveraging a biological understanding of the oral ecosystem. In Japan, Apagard focuses on biomimetic hydroxyapatite to remineralise enamel, illustrating the rise of formulations inspired by dermocosmetics. Meanwhile, Lebon embodies a relaxed luxury with French Riviera influences, combining dermatology and Grasse haute parfumerieto elevate everyday routines. Major French groups are also accelerating their expertise. Through Elgydium, Pierre Fabre is developing formulas incorporating protective enzymes, remineralising actives and targeted technologies.

Another turning point for the microbiome

Having already conquered skincare and nutricosmetics, the oral microbiome is becoming brands’ new focal point. As the cornerstone of oral health, the balance of this flora lies at the heart of the strategy developed by the Smilist. The French premium brand is redefining the standards of a market ʺsaturated with products that eradicate both good and bad bacteriaʺ, according to co-founder François Bonnat. The sector is therefore undergoing a paradigm shift: the objective is no longer merely to eliminate, but to preserve and rebalance the oral ecosystem. Its latest launch, a ʺmicrobiome-friendly” dental floss infused with prebiotics and chamomile, incorporates intelligent “Fiber Expand” technology to target bacteria responsible for irritation while preserving those essential to gum health. The brand is simultaneously expanding its whitening, freshness and soothing kits. Breton company Yslab, meanwhile, combats gingivitis with a mouthwash formulated using algae and aquatic plants, developed as part of the Buccocéan project with the support of Biotech Santé Bretagne. Validated by the NuMeCan Research Institute, a specialist in the oral microbiome, its effectiveness results in a 51% reduction in gum inflammation.

This microbiological approach is also taking other disruptive forms: Chinese brand Ceelike is reinventing mouth spray by borrowing the aesthetic codes of fine fragrance and creating formulas composed of four probiotic strains and pearl powder. German brand Natch is shaking up formats with Boombastic, a tablet mouthwash containing postbiotics and micro-hydroxyapatite. Even the most universal product – toothpaste – is being enriched with probiotics through a formula created by American brand Boka. The microbiome is thus emerging as one of the market’s next major territories for innovation and differentiation.

Clean beauty and sustainability find their place

In France, brands originating from the clean beauty movement are also investing in this territory. Respire is translating its natural and sensory approach into oral care through toothpastes formulated with more than 98% naturally derived ingredients and available in indulgent flavours, blurring the boundaries between hygiene and pleasurable cosmetics. 900.care is applying refillability principles to oral care with dissolvable toothpastes and reusable systems designed to reduce plastic waste. Meanwhile, Californian brand Bite is bringing sustainability issues into the sector with solid, refillable toothpaste tablets, illustrating the growing hybridisation between scientific performance, practicality and environmental consciousness. A similar positioning can be found in fellow Californian brand Davids, which focuses on natural formulas infused with essential oils and packaged in recyclable metal tubes, embodying the rise of a more sustainable and transparent premium oral care segment.

Holistic and experiential approaches are redefining the smile

Twice is pushing the convergence between oral care and wellness even further with formulas enriched with vitamins, aloe vera and nano-hydroxyapatite, conceived as genuine everyday treatments. Inspired by Ayurvedic practices, Australian brand Keeko is reviving oil pulling through mouth oils containing superfoods and natural actives, reflecting the rise of a more holistic approach to oral health.

Maintaining one’s smile is therefore becoming a fully-fledged sensory experience, particularly appealing to younger generations. French brand Merci Handy embraces Gen Z’s colourful and playful codes with products featuring pop-inspired packaging and nostalgic flavours, designed to transform a functional routine into a shareable lifestyle moment.

Innovation is also reshaping usage habits. With its tray-shaped toothbrush enabling brushing within seconds, French company Y-Brush is reinventing traditional gestures through an approach combining ergonomics, technology and time-saving.

At the crossroads of beauty, health and lifestyle, oral care is now establishing itself as a territory of innovation in its own right. Connected diagnostics, biotech formulations, microbiome personalisation and designer accessories: the smile is becoming a new field for aesthetic and identity expression. Long regarded as a simple hygiene gesture, oral care is evolving into a hybrid industry blending cosmetics, technology, wellness and preventive medicine. An evolution bringing oral care ever closer to the codes of premium beauty, dermatology and beauty-tech.