Estée Lauder unveils new biological pathways for skin and hair

At the annual Society of Investigative Dermatology meeting in Chicago, the U.S. group presented several advances highlighting the growing role of biology-driven approaches in skin and scalp care.

Among the findings, plant-derived exosomes are gaining traction: tested on reconstructed skin models, they significantly reduce inflammatory markers and support the restoration of homeostasis. Another avenue explored is a proprietary collagen-boosting complex, which outperforms retinol by increasing collagen I expression while preserving tissue viability following UV exposure.

For sensitive skin, a serum formulated with Macrocystis pyrifera ferment demonstrated benefits in barrier repair, hydration, and neuroinflammatory pathways, leading to reduced redness and discomfort, including in cases of rosacea and eczema.

Research also addressed scalp aging: the identification of altered dermal fibroblast profiles highlights their potential role in shortening the hair growth cycle and reducing hair density. In parallel, skin sensitivity – particularly in response to non-histaminergic itch – appears to increase with age.

Finally, perimenopause emerges as a key phase, characterized by early changes in hydration and barrier function, notably linked to sleep quality. These insights pave the way for more targeted formulation strategies at the crossroads of biology, clinical science, and consumer expectations.