Beauty ingredients: the transparency and innovation mandate

Three questions for: 

Sunanda Desai, Vice President, Chemicals and Materials,  

and

Elodie Alves, Senior Analyst 

at Kline & Company 

Interview by

Véronique Louis 

What are the biggest shifts in competition shaping the beauty ingredients market? Which types of beauty ingredients remain truly differentiating today, and which are becoming increasingly commoditized due to rising competition? 

Competition is increasingly shaped by the commoditization of traditional active ingredients alongside the rise of technology-driven differentiation. Core actives such as vitamins A, C and E, organic acids including hyaluronic, lactic and glycolic acids, ceramides and long-established peptides are now widely available from multiple producers, placing pressure on pricing and limiting differentiation. At the same time, suppliers are shifting toward biotechnology, sustainable sourcing and multifunctional ingredients to stand out. Fermentation processes, lab-grown materials such as plant stem cells and biomimetic proteins or peptides, upcycled feedstocks, and novel plant- or fungi-derived resources – including snow, reishi, and oyster mushrooms – are enabling companies to differentiate through how ingredients are made, not just what they are.  

What are the new standards for credibility, transparency, and consumer trust? With stronger regulatory scrutiny and growing consumer skepticism, which ingredient-related claims (anti-aging, clean, biotech, longevity, etc.) do you believe will remain credible – and which are likely to fade away?  

Credibility rests on scientific validation, transparent testing, and authentic sustainability practices. Claims backed by hard data and recognized certifications will endure, while broad or poorly defined marketing terms risk losing consumer trust unless supported by stronger evidence and clearer standards.  

Science-backed, clinically validated claims: Consumers increasingly expect rigorous testing, not just small-scale trials. Claims related to anti-aging, longevity, anti-inflammatory or hair growth remain highly relevant but must be supported by larger meaningful studies. A product tested on 20 people with 90% success does not carry the same weight as one tested on 80+ participants.  

Dermatology-aligned claims: As the boundary between dermatology, pharma and personal care narrows, claims tied to skin health or barrier repair, will remain credible when paired with guidance, transparency, and appropriate disclaimers. For example, hair loss prevention may require clearer communication to consumers encouraging medical consultation when underlying conditions may be present. 

Clean Beauty: The unregulated nature of “clean” claims is driving concerns about ʺclean-washing.ʺ Consumers increasingly question the term as it can apply to both certified natural products – such as COSMOS certified – as well as products formulated with petrochemicals. A brand could use the term “clean” while having 1% of non-natural / petro ingredients in their products. The lack of a consistent regulatory definition risks eroding trust. There is also a growing awareness around the sustainability aspect of all ingredients, whether they are from natural resources or synthetic. Stating a product asʺ95% natural originʺ may not be enough in the eyes of certain consumers who question the true environmental impact of ingredients across sourcing, manufacturing, and packaging.  

Microbiome-friendly: In the past couple of years, the market has seen a surge in use of this claim without clear standards. While there is a real scientific opportunity in microbiome-supporting formulations in both skin and hair care, generic usage may lead to overuse and consumer fatigue. 

How can brands better align ingredient innovation with real consumer needs? Based on your insights, what are the most significant gaps between what consumers genuinely expect from ingredients and the marketing storytelling brands are currently using?  

One of the key gaps lies between performance expectations and actual ingredient capabilities. Consumers are often led to anticipate immediate results through marketing language that oversimplifies ingredient science. For example, hyaluronic acid is widely associated with instant hydration and visible plumping, yet not all molecular weights deliver the same level of water-retention performance – a nuance that is rarely communicated in marketing. As formulations become more advanced, a second gap is emerging around consumer education. Most consumers cannot interpret INCI lists or fully understand how individual actives function, which increases the disconnect between what ingredients genuinely do and how they are promoted. Without clearer explanation of mechanisms, concentrations and limitations, brands risk eroding trust. To close these gaps, brands need to pair innovation with more transparent, accurate performance storytelling and provide accessible education that bridges scientific complexity without overpromising results.  

Please note: 

Sunanda Desai, Vice President, Chemicals & Materials and Elodie Alves, Senior Analyst at Kline & Company, will be speaking at in-cosmetics Global 2026 on the topic: Inclusive Beauty: Unlocking New Opportunities and Sustainable Growth in Personal Care in the Marketing Trends Theatre on Wednesday 15 April from 11:30 - 12:15.